The baffles are attached to the studs on the engine except where they are held snug to the cylinder cooling fins. Here the baffles are attached with wires which have a spring to hold them snug as the cylinders expand and contract do to temperature. The springs on the Fly Baby engine baffles (C-85-8) have about 2-4 pounds of force so that's what I'll use to make springs for these.
The first task is to make the wires which have a loop at one end and a hook at the other. There are 4 fasteners P/N 0450277-1, 0450277-2, 0450211-1 & 0450211-2. I only have the wires, no springs, for 277-1 & -2. They are shown at the upper left, They go through the rear baffle and loop around the cylinder. After measuring carefully I found there is only 5/8" for the compressed springs.
Holding the other cylinder baffles in place I measured from the baffle to the hole in it's support piece. Allowing 5/8" for the compressed spring 211-1 needs a 3" wire and 211-2 a 4 1/2" wire. The wire for 277-1 is 2 5/8" and for 277-2 it's 11" long from the bottom of the loop to the hook.
There is a washer between the loop and the spring. I used an AN960-8 for this. It gives a nice surface for the spring to ride on.
The old rusty wires measured .050" in diameter so I bought some .051" music wire from McMaster-Carr. I thought I could carefully unwind what I needed and put the rest back in the box. That was a fools mission. Free the coil, tag it, and store the left overs in a Ziploc bag with a little Corrosion-X.
The first step was to straighten enough to make a wire.
I bent the loop end around a 1/2" rod. A 7/16" rod might have made a loop closer to the original size but this worked.
I didn't want the sides parallel because I wanted a little tension on the loop once it was done, like on a safety pin.
The first 3 bends are just 90 degree bends done with the needle nose pliers.
The third bend has to be positioned so it will be in the right place when the lop is closed. It took a couple bends to figure out where to make it. In the end I placed the pliers so they were at the top of the first leg with the sides parallel and the wire ended up just below the first leg when closed.
I bent the end over the wire to about 30 degrees, trimmed it of, and the squeezed the end tightly closed.
The hook end has a nice radius, not a sharp corner, so I bent it around the blade on my sheet metal pliers. I had previously filed a smooth radius on the edges of the blades.
Measuring the length from the bottom of the loop to the edge of the blade worked close enough.
With the wire loop parallel to the blades the hook has bent by pushing the wire against the table while making the bend.
After cutting the hook to length I cleaned it up on the belt sander. I cut myself on enough things I didn't want any more sharp edges. I just noticed there is a drop of blood on the table from poking myself. That's why I were safety glasses 24-7.
On to making the springs
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