I was concerned that I would not get a good seal on the old fuel lines. There was evidence people had worked to seal the fittings to stop fuel leaks in the past. The best solution would probably be to make all new lines. Instead I ordered some DEL 37 deg. fitting seals from Aircraft Spruce. They're about $2 each and I won't know if they work until I can leak test the lines. They're soft aluminum caps which fit on the end of the fittings (shiny ends on fittings). They intall easier on new fittings, but by lining them up squarely on the fitting and then slowly turning the fitting while gently pushing down with your finger tips they go on well. They stay fairly well but will fall off a new fitting so be careful they are very fragile. They're so soft I'm sure they will seal very well.
I also cleaned up and re-greased the bearings for the elevator trim tab wheel. The wheel is straight forward to re-install using the procedures in the 140 Operation Manual or the 100 Series Service Manual. The service manual does not have the cable tension spec for the 140. It did have one piece of information I could not find in the Operation Manual. There was no spec for oiling the chain in the Operation Manual because none of the control chains are supposed to be greased or oiled. It would seem they were more concerned with it picking up dirt if oiled than reducing friction. Many slow moving parts are better not oiled. When I cleaned the chain in some MEK I was shocked how much grit washed off it from someone oiling it in the past. The chain didn't even look dirty. If I ever detect any rusting I'll use the Corrosion-x to lightly oil it, but for now it is cleaned and moves very freely.
Monday, April 4, 2011
Trim Wheel & Fuel lines
I was concerned that I would not get a good seal on the old fuel lines. There was evidence people had worked to seal the fittings to stop fuel leaks in the past. The best solution would probably be to make all new lines. Instead I ordered some DEL 37 deg. fitting seals from Aircraft Spruce. They're about $2 each and I won't know if they work until I can leak test the lines. They're soft aluminum caps which fit on the end of the fittings (shiny ends on fittings). They intall easier on new fittings, but by lining them up squarely on the fitting and then slowly turning the fitting while gently pushing down with your finger tips they go on well. They stay fairly well but will fall off a new fitting so be careful they are very fragile. They're so soft I'm sure they will seal very well.
I also cleaned up and re-greased the bearings for the elevator trim tab wheel. The wheel is straight forward to re-install using the procedures in the 140 Operation Manual or the 100 Series Service Manual. The service manual does not have the cable tension spec for the 140. It did have one piece of information I could not find in the Operation Manual. There was no spec for oiling the chain in the Operation Manual because none of the control chains are supposed to be greased or oiled. It would seem they were more concerned with it picking up dirt if oiled than reducing friction. Many slow moving parts are better not oiled. When I cleaned the chain in some MEK I was shocked how much grit washed off it from someone oiling it in the past. The chain didn't even look dirty. If I ever detect any rusting I'll use the Corrosion-x to lightly oil it, but for now it is cleaned and moves very freely.
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